October 2, I felt as though visiting a church was in order. Here I am, separated from all I know living a pretty harsh existence, well at least not a warm and fuzzy one! Each day I see some pretty sad sites outside of the windows of the cars I ride in. So, maybe a connection with the spiritual would reassure me and focus my energy in a more positive direction.
Just an aside, here it is the END of October and I have not been able to even see my blog as the internet access here is soooo minimal! I cannot believe I thought things were tricky only two weeks into this whole adventure! The sad sights from the window of the car only get more shocking as the weeks go by. I am completely pessimistic that I will have terrible visions in my mind forever due to this foray into Africa! But I am only one mind in 80 million. A church would be good to join right now but I do not have the energy to get there . . . and I am not sure what I could contribute to a congregation at this point. It is comforting to know that there is one so close though . . . we drive by it occasionally and I can see the open gates.
The Orthodox Coptic Christian Church is right down the Corniche from my building. Corniche, by the way, is Arabic for “Storrow Drive” (except with WAAAAY more activity like speeding honking cars / mobs of pedestrians crossing / and dirt). So, off I go one morning not even knowing when the service begins but knowing that there are always services on Friday mornings. Fridays being the new Saturdays here in Cairo of course! The three modest domes of the church are visible from the street. They rise above a beige cement wall that has an open iron gate. It sits on the bank of the Nile. As I arrive two buses are emptying out and I see for the first time since I have been here, severely handicapped children. They are lovingly assisted or carried by their families. As I watch them I am trying to remember seeing other people with such needs anywhere in Cairo and I cannot. Why are these people kept out of the public eye? The city is so dirty and ugly – seeing the loving kindness that the children are treated with by their families would only make Cairo a more beautiful place.
The church is completely packed. People are sitting shoulder to shoulder and standing in the aisles all the way up to the alter and in the back. I note my luck in having turned to the right as I entered. All the women are sitting on the right and all the men on the left. Heads are covered with light scarves. I, on the other hand am wearing a merino wool shawl over my head and am too hot. Oh well.
I find an empty spot at the back wall and lean against it. I notice right away that the incense is so thick that the ceiling is almost obscured with smoke. The church is almost bare compared to any of the churches I know from home. It is all beige. The small windows are placed high above our heads and are shuttered letting in only a little light. “Chandeliers” with great big light bulbs illuminate the room. It is a building slightly larger than St. Paul's on Nantucket and also split into three sections like St. Paul's. Unlike any other small church I have been in however, this church has about 6-8 large LCD monitors mounted on the columns showing the scene from the altar. No one misses a thing in this church. The priest is using a PA and the sermon is very loud. So the new technology right up against the old.
An older woman standing near me decides to take me under her wing. She offers me a seat every time one becomes vacant but I smile and wave it off – making sure that someone else takes it. The women are in constant motion! They are checking on their kids or other more elderly women traveling with them. They switch seats or trade standing for sitting with the people they are with. This is a long service – in all I will be here for over two hours. I have arrived late and they will still be going strong when I leave.
I understand only a single word during the entire service, something like maktaba – book – I think. However, I do recognize the tradition of giving a sign of peace when it comes. Each person turns to the next and with both hands holds their neighbor's right hand in theirs. Then they kiss their own fingertips. It is intensely personal and I feel awkward immediately but there is no way out – much more awkward to not share the sign of peace so I am thrust into this intimate ceremony. I am immediately overwhelmed by homesickness ! wishing for all the familiar hands I would love to hold today.
I am still not sure if this is a special day or not but there are a LOT of children! I mean every other person is holding a baby or entertaining a little one. Babies dressed like mini-popes ! complete with little white triangle hats with the gold embroidery cross and fringe (gotta have the fringe!). Other babies are dressed very much like they are there for a baptism complete with tiny pierced ears and little gold bracelets. I have since asked other Copts what this could have been but they keep telling me it was probably just a regular service. The little pope babies stare wide-eyed at us all over the shoulders of their moms – the white triangle hats dotting the crowd in front of me.
The women start to take their shoes off. I think – Wow! everyone's feet hurt just as much as mine. But then I realize they are headed to communion and it seems even the babies are required to have their shoes off too. So, it is communion and all the barefooted women make a swarm of bodies on the way to the alter. Cannot quite call it a line. I am too hot and tired by now so begin moving toward the door – not an easy task!! I finally notice that the men are not going to communion and that at the altar they have taken their places as photographer/videographer of their wife as she goes to communion with the baby! So, lots of photos at the communion rail. There are FILM videographers – using big heavy machines I have not seen in a looong time. I take a last glimpse and exit the church and realize that the communion is given with a spoon. I am not sure if they are dipping in to get a host or to get some wine but do realize that everyone is taking whatever it is off the SAME spoon! Including the babies! Oh lord, may the power of prayer take hold here . . . .Can you say Swine Flu?
On my way out a women asks me to buy a raffle ticket for the church. I can see that I so not have enough money to buy one. I only have a very small bill which I try to give her just as a donation but she just says - “Maybe later.” Darn not knowing the language!
I walk to a side of the building I have not seen. The service is on loud speaker outside so that it can be followed by the coffee clutches everywhere. There is a gate and it opens on to a very crowded outdoor cafe setting. More people all sitting at tables and chairs talking and drinking coffee while listening to the service. There is a concession stand and it is doing a brisk! Business! Next to the concession stand is a gift store – they sell Holy Mary Extra Virgin Olive Oil! I smile. They also sell the little pope outfits – cheese – jam – olives – post cards and a few other items. Interesting.
I leave thinking - “the coffee must be good here” I mean, a lot of people are drinking it and they must need to have good coffee. I look out at the Nile and marvel at the incomprehensible view before me. I think of all the humans throughout time who stood where I am now. The belief systems that have traveled here – changed this place and the beliefs that change people. I wonder if and/ or how I may change . . . and how I may stay the same.
