Laundry and Stopping to Smell the Palm Fronds

And another thing! We do the laundry in a little laundry room on the second floor of the main house and there is a little balcony where we hang the laundry. All my laundry-hanging friends will be glad to know that in Egypt the laundry line has no socioeconomic boundaries and that you see them at all balconies. Ours of course, is not visible from the street. It is surreal to be standing there and leaning out to hang a t-shirt and realize that a loooong palm frond needs to be pushed aside. Or, that the only evidence of the slight breeze is that the HUGE leaves of a tree (banana?) below us are doing the screw-in-the-lightbulb-princess wave (in other words they are not bobbing up and down but dancing). These leaves are 2-3 feet wide and 6,7,or8 feet tall. HUGE! I am sure they would have been the types used to fan the Pharaohs! And of course, between the heat and the flies ( not so bad at all) all that fanning is really making sense to me now! Anyway, just wanted to let you know that all parts of this experience even, especially?, the mundane are exotic and make me stop and take notice.

First Day of Ramadan and Some Observations

Saturday Aug 22, 2009
First Day of Ramadan

So, using the computer in the morning is a must. Since there is only one internet provider here the evenings are noticeably slower! And much more frustrating. But overall I am very pleased with the technological resources we have access to. We have a wireless in the house and it seems OK even when 4, 5, or 6 of us are accessing it at once. And there is a Vonage phone to call home with, I couldn't be here without it. If anyone is considering teaching abroad I would say that these factors should be key in your decision-making process. Do not underestimate them. And get the best computer you can to bring with you. I am frustrated with my computer's lack of speed and gadgets and screen size - BUT still love the price!

At school we will have desktops and Smartboards ( check them out on Youtube!) as well as really nice Xerox machines. So all will be well when we are there (I hope!)

This brings me to an interesting literacy conundrum that I am observing here. The villa we are in is the home of an uber-academic family. Braniac city. There are plenty of high-brow discussions anytime two or more people get together and books fill the shelves. However, there are few to NO writing materials. At first I thought I was not looking in the correct places but then I realized there were NONE. I almost bought doilies to write on after I used up the one pack of flashcards that I own! I even searched a local corner mart thinking there would be a small note pad of some sort but no . . . I mean, at home at Cumberland Farms there are probably some kinds of writing materials for sale - correct? Luckily two pads of paper were brought to me from Cairo. To have this discrepancy is very interesting to me and speaks to me about the literacy of the culture perhaps. I will have to learn more. Just as a beginner learner of the alphabet I have already learned that Arabic is VERY difficult to master as a spoken language and that as a written /calligraphy form almost impossible to master. That is not an understatement. Hardly anyone is a MASTER at the Arabic language in writing. So, what does that say about people using their language? Easier to speak and read it that put down all those mistakes forever in writing? And so, writing . . . .I am just not sure. More on that later. For now, I am happy with my two packs of very thin white lined paper ( in between 81/2 X 11 and legal size) the two packs of nice colored pencils, my one pack of sparkle gel pens and the roller tip pens they provided too. Whew!

We have no printer here either. This resort home that is beautifully appointed and filled with all the comforts of home. So, any documents we read or write or share are on our computer screens - no paper. So, this am I was up early writing out the alphabet recognition chart and Fry's chart of the first 200 words! Getting ready for my fourth grader to arrive tomorrow to meet me and read with me. Wish us luck!

Have you seen the movie Ruthless People with Bette Midler? Well, today we realized the gate to the villa was locked and we could not get OUT! (This is the 2nd time this has happened) Since it was early we did not want to wake anyone so just hung out doing an exercise video (Zoomba) in the living room until one of the workers showed up. All I could think about was Bette Midler's character in that basement getting thinner and thinner with her exercise videos. So much fun!!

Last night Mrs. L. was going out so she had the hairdresser come to the house as well as a sweet woman to do her nails. We were eating our dinner buffet (only 4 courses last night!) and she was having a salon across the room. Fun! I and another gal also got a mani and a pedi.(rest assured there was a foot bath made available to us no-problem, it took almost a week to get the paper). Partly it was to enjoy the pampering and partly it was to give work to this young gal who brought her 3 month old baby to the house too. We all got to hold this little sweetie. She slept almost the whole time. She had pierced ears with little diamonds in them and was smiling away at some dream time joke. Since it is Ramadan this woman also took one of the packages of food that we all prepared for the workers. We were more than glad to pay her. Even though Mrs. L. assured us we were paying her handsomely it ended up being the equivalent of 10 American dollars per person.

Two nights ago we played tennis at the local court (clay - - ish) and thoroughly embarrassed ourselves! The rental of the court came with the services of a small boy (maybe 9 years old?) and he ran to get all the balls. I think he is used to mostly running around after them INSIDE the court but we had him running around everywhere. He had a BIG smile on his face when we gave him a 10 pound note ( about 2 ish American dollars) as a tip. Now I can compare it to the wage of the manicurist I can see why!

Ramadan is today. Moslems do not eat or drink or smoke during daylight hours. After sunset anything goes though and they reward themselves with over indulgences then. We will see what the dinner (Fatar literally break-fast) brings tonight.

All is well here although I am disappointed about a delay in the opening of the school. Apparently the government decided THIS week that schools should not be open for Ramadan and sent a notice to schools that cannot be challenged. This is tricky for me as I have given up so much to be a good little teacher and arriving on time. Arriving later would have been perfect for me and here is the opportunity to have done that but . . . Arggggghhh! VERY frustrating. Did I say that already?

To end on good notes - Everyone here is working hard at making these times as productive and resourceful as possible. We have brainstorming sessions and discuss ways to travel and explore the country. All the while getting to know each other that much more. Here is a fun variation on Charades called Celebrity. You need about 6 people to play - 3 on each team. Everyone writes about 6-10 names of famous people on small pieces of paper and puts them in a bag. Taking turns each person on the team takes a turn. A timer is set and you reach in the bag and give clues to your team about the perosn you selected. After a minute you count how many names your team got. Sounds easy right? Well that is the first round. During the second round (Still with all the same names put back in the bag) you can only say a single word but must act out the rest. And of course, during the third round you can only act it out. FUN!

I am so glad the internet is working! Occasionally I get a web page - or this sign in page - and it is alllll in Arabic! Yikes! Shocking and yet a fun challenge!! (.. . . sort of)

Worried about the hurricane in Nantucket - will check in with the weather now. Thinking of ACK but in Agamy - and now that the gate is unlocked - planning for the Mediterranean!

First Thoughts

7:13 am in Nantucket
2:13 pm in Agamy - just west of Alexandria on the Mediterranean
I have been in Egypt for almost 48 hours. Here are my random stream of thoughts - so many!
You will all have to put up with this smorgasboard for now. As I settle in to life here I hope my thoughts settle as well but, this will give you an idea of how my mind is spinning for now. (Spell check not working by the way and I am too lazy, and rushed, to edit - my apologies!)

So the flight was uneventful but my heart was very heavy leaving Nantucket - I love my family, friends, dog and all that geography so . . . I think if anything it is the fact that I do have all that love that will see me through this adventure and education I am in for here.

BUT! I got to see the new Star Trek on the plane! Going to ancient Egypt, on a modern plane, listening to a futuristc story, where Spock comes back to visit his younger self! Whoa!

AND! got to see the pyramids from the plane too! How surreal was that?? They looked just like they do on National Geographic! As soon as they announced that they were on the left side of the plane they came back on to say - stay in your seats. What were they thinking? I luckily had a glimpse of them across the aisle past two people and out a window. Cool.

Airplane food - can they make it any worse? The best part was the salt and pepper packages! They were colored solid blue but the salt had one white dot and the pepper had five white dots printed on it. Cute! Edible parts? Cheese and cracker (no, I did NOT forget to add the plural s - I meant cheese and crackeR!) And of course tiny brownie.

So after crossing the Nile in the Bowing 767 (pretty comfy and really smoooooth flight!) I spent the night at a lovely apartment and then left in the am to cross the Nile in a black BMW four door sedan on the way to Alexandria. We spent the majority of the time driving ON the dotted white lines. it is MUCH easier to squeeze between all those annoying other VEHICLES on the road that way! I have to say as unorthodox ( from the Amercian perspective) that our driver's technique was I never felt afraid. He was THAT good - and, thank you Dr. Butterworth! : ) In case you want to drive here one day here is the pattern you must follow. Gas, gas, gas, squeeze through any and all openings as if you are receiving from the quarterback! Any time any other vehicle or person comes anywhere near you use your horn, horn, horn, and gas, gas, gas. If for any reason you must apply or even THINK about applying the brake use your horn twice as much. It seems to work! And I was also told the honking is a form of driver-to-driver communication of "thanks" unlike as in the US, a form of harsh words for bad driving. The horn lets cars/people know you see them and WON'T hit them! So, if you are on a street in Cairo and see a car coming towards you and they do NOT honk . . .watch out!

S. our guide around Agamy seemed fearless crossing streets as a pedestrian until it came to microbusses. She said "let the crazy micorbusses go!". So, now I am wondering what goes on in those microbusses? Hmmmm . . . .be afraid, very afraid.

The beach is truly a resort. Hundreds (thousands?) of umbrells lined up for the taking. You bring your towel and have access only with a resident. A worker immediately grabs wooden rustic chairs and a small plastic table for the sand and follows you to your spot. He also brings a great BIG cusion for sitting/laying on ala Ceasar and Cleopatra! I could not find someone to peel grapes for me but that is how it felt!!!! There are ALL states of dress at this beach - bikinis to women in jeans long sleeves and veils. For the most part the veils do not cover their faces but some do but I did not see those at the beach. The water was SOOOOO shallow but very much a surf beach and the current was just about as strong east to west as I have ever felt at the beach at Surfside. No one went out past their shoulders. The water was warm warm warm but with a good 20-25 knot wind it was very cooling. I have to say the heat has not been a factor . . .yet. . . in my mere 48 hours. At the beach absolutely no one was lying out. I had to ask why. I was told that it is cooler sitting up in a chair to get the breeze. So strange to see EVERYONE sitting up in the same type of chair. So far we are spoiled with air conditioning that is turned on and off per room as you go to each one. At night before I went to bed I walked through a very WARM hallway and went into my airconditioned bedroom. It felt positively freezing! But later in the evening it felt just right. We sleep with puffs on the bed! It's very cozy. Without air conditoning it would be a very different story and I am constantly reminded that this country is really two countries - I can only glimpse and imagine the experience of the poor.

Mrs. L. has told me that she thinks the Arabic alphabet book that I have is a good one. Yay! I will continue to study. I feel like SUCH a beginner - which only makes sense since I am. It is a good thing to feel once-in-a-while and I am certainly motivated so we will see. It is such a complicated language that I will be thrilled to just be able to recite and write the alphabet. Amazing at how difficult it is to do and such a great exercise to remember what students go through when they are learning.

We have discussed school a bit and I am to meet a boy who needs some help this week. I am very interested to learn more about him and his strengths and needs. He is related to one of the owners of the school. So much seems to be riding on his success but I have to remember that he is just a boy and that he and I will work on just reading and writing and having fun. All the rest will have to wait in the hallway. Will keep you posted. I see why they hired someone with experience as a new teacher might be too intimidated by the whole prospect. I enjoy a challenge on the other hand and have a sturdiness about my teaching that should be able to withstand the external pressures that come with such a student.

Today Ms. L. reminded us of a fabulous expression "Dress your heart" from the Little Prince - her favorite book. She told us that we teachers willl have "Dress Your Heart" calendars where we plan for Egyptian experiences that we desire! Amazing. I love the expression and told her we should use it school wide somehow.

Just as I expected we have all come with promises made to schools from each of our home towns. Egypt facinates all it seems. So, we will see how we parcel out the opportunities for pen pals and chatting and . . . blogging?? It will all come together. I of course, want to make sure that S.'s class at the Lighthouse School on Nantucket will be able to participate. This school has much to learn about community building from the LHS too although we are on our way on our own too.

So, we toured Agamy the city last night. It is funny this town. Our villa is at the beginning of a road leading to the beach. For the length of this road, about 3 blocks, it gets progressively more and more like the BAHAMAS! Dirt road lined with villas / palm trees / palm trees . And the beach reminds me of a very Bahamian beach complete with a little cafe a la the Little Rascals club house! (But a thousand times more croweded). So that's walking North to the beach. Walking East to the center is more like Cambridge married a carnival and had a baby ( a moslem baby).And last night was just a regular working night. Cafes open to the street. PLENTY of people of ALL ages (this was 10PMish). Men selling food from make-shift stands and when I say make-shift I mean it. Two concrete blocks with a piece of metal some cardboard a few charocal briquettes et voila! a grill for selling grilled corn - and of course there would be a hibiscus decorating one corner! I took photos and may have over done it as my fellow teachers made some noise about enough! But So far I have not had my fill and will continue to take them. : )

I was interested to see tall thin brown jugs with flat lids nicely displayed. I had seen two earlier on a sidewalk all covered with dust and in a sort of dirty sport. Last night I saw a big collection nicely set out on a towel and very clean looking. S. told us that it was a water station for anyone who needed water. They are set out here and there by anyone who chooses to do so. I liken it to our bird baths at home in their randomness but, of course, on a human scale. Water fountains? Haven't seen one - plus they would take energy. This is much more practical.

I broke my no-eating-from-sidewalk-stands rule 24 hours in. No ill effects and it was tasty too! Fatar is a doughy treat thrown much like pizza dough only much thinner. Within mere seconds a solid patty of dough is turned into a 3'X3' paper thin sheet. It is then sprinkled with powedered sugar, honey, and some sort of cream or whipped cream thing. Then folded in thirds then in half again (six layers) and put into the brick oven. Moments late out comes this tasty treat that is absolutely drowned in more powdered sugar! Yum! We had another that was supposedly plainer - without honey or cream - but it tasted as though there were Parmesan Cheese. They swore it was not cheese thought so I am not sure what exactly that was. So much fun!!

Today - must go to the beach - must go back to the package store humorously named- "Drinkies" and about as big as a small walk-in closet and primarly filled with Heinekin beer. Yay! Drinkies. So, Mrs. L. is a Moslem and we do not drink in her house as we respect all her customs as best we can. But at the beach . . .

Sounds of Agamy? Well, the hum of the air conditioner is one. But mostly the sound of a bell ringing and a many yelling manga fresh! or foul! ( fould is like humus only made with lima beans). Many voices walking by in the evening but of course we cannot see the people walking as our villa is surrounded by high walls and even higher tropical vegitation.

Much talk here of Ramadan. We shopped for the workers of the house last night and bought a food pantry type donation for each familiy. All staples such as flour, sugar, oil, dates, coconut, macaroni etc.. I am looking forward to seeing the whole celebratory evenings coming up starting on Saturday.

OK, this is enough right? More to come! Again, apologies for the first draft being published as is.