Random Egypt Stuff

Here's some random Egypt stuff:

There are high cliffs around the city. We can see them in the distance from the 20th floor apartment.We can also see the silver domes of the Citadel and the Mohamed Ali mosque next to it. On the less polluted days it appears VERY shiny. I ask our resident Egyptologist what type of geography that is and they remind me that this area was the ocean once. Those cliffs are the beach. We are living where the bottom of the ocean was! She says that we can find sea shells in the dessert! Cool!

Walking through a neighborhood I see the windshield wipers pulled up off the window. I wonder if a prankster has gone through and popped them all up. NOPE! That is done when a car is left parked for a while so that the blades do not MELT on the windshield. Of course!

We are going to the Egypt vs. Italy under 20 FIFA match on Thursday. No sunglasses allowed. I do not know why but if I figure it out I will let you know. And of course going to a game with 100,000 people should be pretty exciting too.! (See blog update Egypt 4-italy 2!)

Some elevators have no doors. They just go once you are in and you can see the wall sliding by.

Our stove is run on gas. And the gas tank is RIGHT IN THE kitchen. We turn the knob on the top to light the stove then turn it off later. I am not amused.

The twin sister of a woman I met in a coffee shop on Nantucket meets me for coffee. She tells me she absolutely does eat all the vegetables and fruits that she can find regardless of the warnings. She washes them all and then soaks them for an hour in vinegar. I might try this. We both agree that vinegar is more agreeable than the bleach/water solution. She also gives me the best tip for using taxis. Just get in, tell them where you are going, when you arrive get out of the taxi and and the driver what you think is fair. That eliminates all arguing over price. On the way home I try it and it works! I hope we can go to find the karaoke bar she has heard about! Fun!

I go to Carrefor - the BIGGEST Walmart type store I have EVER EVER been in and it is CROWDED!! Good lord !! 18 million is a lot of people!! They were ALL at Carrefor the day we went. I get separated from the group and shop on my own. I am very slow since I am so busy averting my eyes and trying to figure out the 10 digits and the price of EVERYTHING. Then I resort to just buying what I see the mommy type people buying of each item. It seems to work. Now I have my hairdryer ( mine from home blew up!) and a decent tea mug. It's the little things . . .

When anyone wants your attention they make a psssssst noise. It is very strange and when I first heard it I was inclined to ignore it as it sounds sort of like maybe harassment is next. I am slowly getting used to the idea to respond.

Our doorbell is a chirping bird! It would be easy to miss as a REAL bird. Many doorbells are the same BUT we never expected it to be the noise of the alarm for a backing up vehicle! We notice this in our 15 passenger van on a school trip! So, if you are in a parking lot and hear birds chirping - watch out for a backing up truck!!. . . . Makes sense.

Next entry HAS GOT to be about school and education and what it means to teach here. But for now I cannot begin to write it down. I am scrambling to put it all together for the start of school. I found out yesterday that each classroom will have a matron assigned to it. These women are from the lower class. Sort of like a nanny for each room I am imagining. The matron will sit outside the door of the classroom and wait for any student who may need to use the bathroom. She will bring them to the bathroom and back. She will also escort the children to get their lunch and then again outside to the buses. And . . . .well, the rest I do not know! Strange!

My head is still realing. I have been here one week and two days!

FIFA 2009 Egypt 4 - Italy 2

Soccer!

Had a great time at the FIFA Under 20 World Cup Soccer match last night, Thursday October 1, 2009 under an almost full moon. Where to start?

The four Fifth Grade boys came with us and they are so adorable, smart, personable, . . . and full of beans!! All the other teachers are jealous as they should be . . After meeting at a Kentucky Fried Chicken (of all places!) in Ma'adi we got into the 15 passenger bus and were off. Traffic was thick but we eventually arrived at the stadium and parked - the parking was only half full when we arrived and there were no lines at the gates. Of course, the men go in one line to have their bags checked and the women go in the other line to have theirs checked by a woman. We have to wait as they need to find a female guard to check ours. When we say no problem (mafeesh mish mishkayla) they still refuse. So we wait. Good thing, as we realize that we are at the wrong gate. The kids have already gone through -darn! - we suck at chaperoning. Seems like we should get them back with us, but the turnstyles only turn one way so we send some adults through and they get some guards to escort them from one side of the entrance way to the other (through four wraught-iron gates). Whew! We are all together again, we WON'T get fired!

The stadium is BIG and of course there is a frieze/decoration along the top of all the ancient pharonic sites. But a stadium is a stadium and I feel very much at home. Everyone is pleasant and smiling. There is no alchohol so there is no drunken mis-behavior either - nice! But I would LOVE a cold one - oh well.

There are so MANY children here. Mind you we arrive at 7:00 in order to get good seats - about 20 rows above the 30 yard line! The seats are sold by section only so first come first served. A son of one of my co-workers has taken us under his wings, ordered our tickets, spoke to the driver constantly on the phone to get us to the correct gate, helps us find out seats, and later even treats myself and the kids to sodas and chips etc.. This is all very Egyptian - he is so nice! To us adults and especially to the children. But, back to the children at the stadium - the Egypt vs. italy game STARTS at 9:30 pm and there are plenty of little kids - toddlers etc.. Everyone - I mean everyone helps the children. As they go up and down the stairs and get their seats complete strangers automatically give a hand or advice as children walk by and need direction. I observe this all night and actually, everywhere I go in Egypt. What I am trying to say is that everyone is well behaved. (Except later I find out some guys in back of us were swearing all night and the boys asked an Egyptian teacher if we should ask the men to stop swearing but they were told to leave it alone. I think I would have asked if I had known.) Actually the boys feel very free to speak with any and all adults in front of them. At first I feel like they are too bold and I have the urge to tell them not to talk with strangers. For instance, they tell the first two groups of men that sit in front of them that they are too tall and that the boys cannot see (all unbeknownst to me since it is in Arabic). So . . . they move to other seats!! yeah, THAT would happen at Foxboro! Finally, as the stadium fills, and there is little option to have the people in front of us move their seats, a group of older men sit down and do not move. OK, we allow the boys to stand.

The game is awesome. First we see Nigeria beat poor Tahiti 4 zip. Fancy footwork to be seen! Then we see Egypt beat Italy 4-2. Some questionable calls but really a clean game - only one? yellow card I think? I am so glad that I have brought binoculars even though we have awesome seats! (VERY handsome boys playing). So interesting to see all the facial expressions and SWEAT! on the players/ref/and the very enthusiastc fans. The Egyptian star is Afroto # 11 and is 18? I think. The second best player is # 9 but I forget his name. Afroto is talented but completely shut down by Italy. Two players score two goals each VERY exciting. One scores in less than a minute after replacing Afroto - his name is Bogy and scores off a tussle in front of the goal - makes it look easy.

Any Italy throw-in or penalty shot near the Egypt goal causes a strange, painful, and amazing crowd effect. All 65, 000 fans whistle (two fingers in the mouth whistle) loudly. It is PAINful!! Awesome. Seems to work as none were successful and the Italians were talented at getting a good amount of them. Overall the chanting, drumming, singing by the crowd is amazing. Of course, when they sing the national anthem EVERYone sings loudly and boisterously. Lots of pride to be had. And we have lots of fun doing the wave! In the middle of one of the cheers one of the American teachers and I look at each other and simultaneously realize that Inshallah! is in the middle of the cheer! Inshallah means "God willing". We laugh at the strangeness!

There is very little in the way of concessions. There are a couple of items being sold but there is no yelling such as "Get your hot dog heah!". Actually, I knew I was not in Kansas any more when I saw a tray of tea cups! going by! So, when they want to get your attention they make a kissing noise like you would make talking with a bird!! As unlikely as that seems to be able to work it does! And the guys think nothing of walking THROUGH a row! pardon me, pardon me, pardon me, pardon me . . . . all the way down! hmmmm.

Going to the snack stand was interesting. Four deep with people all holding money out and asking for one of the 8 items sold. And sweaty guys on the other side going as fast as they can handing out water (bottle caps removed for safety), soda, snacks etc. I take two of the boys to get snacks and all of a sudden I realize I am the only female there!! Go for it little M. I will wait here. He does and even though he is shorter than the counter he makes it back with the snack. While I stand nearby waiting for him one man goes by and says "take care, it is VERY BIG in there!" Warning me away from the large throng. I smile in acknowledgement! Oh yeah, I'm not going in there - I am right there with ya - buddy. Later, after the game is over I bump into this same man. He says, "OK?" and I nod yes. Who needs to speak the language??

So, of course, there is a guy dressed up as King Tut or Rhamses or someone. Once I teach the Social Studies class I will know. He has a trumpet and a kid playing a drum. I get some video of him and also ask to have a photo with him!! He asks if I am here for Egypt or Italy!! Yikes! Where is my Egyptian flag when I need it?? He's happy to hear I am all for Egypt!

We have a great time on the ride home. People are waving flags out their windows and beeping and in general being crazier than usual. I see a car next to our van with two woman in Hajabbs in the front seats. I usually do not make eye contact with these women> Of course, the boys are yelling Misr! (Egypt!) out the window and I am just about to tell them not to do so (Out of fear of some sort of negative interaction) when the women all of a sudden smile and wave and beep and totally connect with us. Their two teen aged kids sitting in the back seat climb out and sit on the window openings while holding onto the roof and waving their flags. It all sees a little risky but tame enough for me in the stop-and-go parking lot traffic. We are all so surprised and happy to make this connection with these women! We did not expect that they would continue to pull up beside us for the next 20 minutes or so as we travel along home. This includes driving on the highway at - 50?60? miles per hour? with the kids STILL sitting OUTside the car!! yeah, Egypt!

We get home late after dropping everyone off first. I give our driver and co-pilot a pack of Malborros each! Shokran!!

Jet Lag Part TWO

So where do I start in describing the strange night I had Thursday Sept 24, my second, jet-lag-filled day back? (See part 1 for the day at school)

Off we went to Lucille's, a burger restaurant with the improbable accolade of "best burger in the world". Our resrevation was made by D. our one male teacher. A. goes in to explain that a reservation was made earlier for 7 people and instantly the host says, "ah yes, Mr. D . . " Seems our Mr. D. is famous! We look (and listen) around, there are quite a few Americans and other non-Egyptian patrons. Dinner is lots of fun. It is so good to see these folks again after having been gone for a month. They have been through a lot together including the 5 women and 1 man sharing a 4 bed (yes I meant to write BED) apartment! More than one of them mentions to me in asides that it will be "OK if you freak out cuz we all did pretty much." Yeah . . . thanks.

After dinner we walk along Road 9 where the restaurant is. This is in the middle of our neighborhood, Ma'adi. This road is filled with shops and I stop to buy a small lamp. I "barter" down the price by 5 Egyptian pounds. I guess I need practice but it is OK - the lamp costs about 5 dollars in American. Now I can read without having to turn off the overhead light. That is all the lighting we have in any room in this apartment.

Off we go to the Metro. The well-lit stucco building is spacious yet rustic. We purchase a small yellow ticket and slide it into the slot at the turnstile. Good thing I stuck mine back into my pocket since we find out later that it needs to be put back in the turnstile in order exit the train station too!

The train is dirty - with dirt. I mean dirt, dirt - as if it were a giant clubhouse for fifth grade boys. Not too crowded - it is only 9PM after all - early!! The windows are all open . . . or missing. Either way there is quite a breeze blowing through the car - a warm, warm breeze. The windows also have pull shades made of wooden slats! We can imagine that they provide shade from the blistering sun while still allowing air to come in, or perhaps they keep some dust out?

The train ride is long - about 20 minutes. Even with jet-lag and not knowing the area by map I can tell we are not heading for the Corniche near where I live. That would have been a very short train ride.There are not too many characters on the train. As is the case everywhere we go there are mostly men in the crowd. If there are any women they are traveling with another woman, a child, or a man. We cannot remember seeing a woman traveling alone. We have heard that the first car in a subway is for women but someone else says it is the middle car. Next time we will be sure to look. Tonight I am glad we have two local males and our own Mr. D. with us.
The one charcater worth mentioning is Sparkler Man. Sparkler Man comes aboard our car shouting something in loud, and what I take to be aggressive, Arabic. I find little comfort in the fact that he is wearing nothing to indicate that he is a fanatic - he is wearing a long sleeved shirt and jeans. I keep my eyes averted and watch what the others on the train do. They are all quiet but keep their eyes on him. They are smiling in amusemnt, so OK. I think if any of them leave the train on the next stop I am so out of here. Then he takes out a fist full of blue paper packages about the size of . . .well, sparkler wrappers, and pulls out a sparkler. And lights it on fire!! All the time he is going on with his loud Arabic, the locals are smiling patronizingly and I am wishing for the next stop which doesn't come and doesn't come! In order to prove some point he is making Sparkler Man rubs the lit sparkler on his face and down the front and arms of his shirt repeatedly. I do not know which I find more disturbing: that he may burn his skin or that he may set the packs of sparklers on fire. Strangely, the worry for each of these possibilitiies seems to cancel each other out and I start to watch the whole show with everyone else in amazement. I hear familiar Arabic words in his shouting and it dawns on me that he is SELLING sparklers! Apparently rubbing them over his body is a selling point. "Buy these sparklers - see you can rub them over your body!" maybe it is a new advertising method showing people things they might never have thought of before for each product like, "Look at these chocolate chip cookies. Pile them on top of each other and use them as a perfectly safe stepladder!" Suddenly we are at our stop and off we go - so many things to see that I almost instantly forget about Sparkler Man.

We get off the train and go up some stairs. Much of what we see or do reminds me of the old subway stations in Boston just with lighter more beige color schemes.The train staircase opens onto a HUGE rotary in the center of Cairo!! Now I am truly speechless. Wow! Billboards abound - I mean everywhere - this is where the movie 5th Element got its cityscape ideas!! There is the tall cylindrical Cairo Tower covered in colored lights, and the Egyptian Museum, and . . . just everything. And LOTS of noisy traffic.

We begin what turns out to be a brisk and harrowing 20 minute walk through speeding traffic I mean SPEEDING traffic. Every patch of grass around this busy rotary is being used by couples and families for sitting and talking and eating. It is late at night, warm, and even little children are out enjoying . . . .the city rotary?! We walk around the rotary, under an overpass, through a crowded micro bus station. It is astoudingly crowded here with many people piling in and out of micro busses that fill an underpass area. Not too much further it starts to get pretty smelly and the ground is pretty dirty and we are in some sort of market area? where people have stands set up and many local families have gathered. We continue to walk. MORE traffic and more death defying street crossings. Our guides bravely go before us and slow traffic with their raised arms (sort of). When I say death defying I mean it. I get the EXACT same feeling as when I was a kid and the bar to the roller coaster is locked in place and the car is rolling forward - no turning back!

We arrive at a highway that runs along the Nile so this is the Corniche just miles down from where we started. It is VERY crowded. We are wondering if a soccer match just got out? Ususally there is a lot of honking but tonight it is insane. Finally one guide makes us to undersrand that there is a wedding. Oh! We get it now! Well it wasn't until later that we realize there are MANY wedding parties driving by this area. So, you get married and then you and your wedding guests hop in your cars and drive along this area honking the whole way. You are joined by a whole bunch of other couples doing the same thing. The car for the bride and groom either has bouqets of flowers decorating the front and back hoods of the car with a ribbon running from front to back OR christmas lights blinking all over the car. I do not mean a string of christmas lights but the big recatngular patches of lights that you can get to put over bushes. They blink - all blue, al green, and look very cool.

Like I said the sidewalk is jammed as if a sporting event just got out. Many other people than the wedding-type people are her too. There are vendors selling everything: candy, grilled corn, bags of nuts, something that looks like popcorn . . . on a string?? (what that was I do not know), things in paper cones at the end of a stick (again, do not know). One man had blocks of ice set out with drinks for sale on top. People call out to us "Wellllcome. welllcome to eeegypt!" One man asks to have his picture taken with us, he insists. There is a stone wall along the sidewalk and on the other side a steep rocky embankment about 20 feet above the Nile. Every inch is covered with men, women in head scarves and flowing robes, and small children. The littlest ones are held, some of them sit straddling their mom's shoulder and hanging on to her head as she balances the baby while holding the back of his pants. Some children that can barely walk are balancing along the tops of the stone wall! Yikes! people are also sitting togetether on the sloping stone bank.It is quite festive and very friendly. All I can think is Man! we do NOT use our riversides enough in the US. But of course, this warm weather is what makes it all possible.

More brides and grooms go by and it seems they are heading down the steps to the Nile. People cheer as they make their way through the crowds. We look out on the water and see boats all over. After descending a staircase we find ourselves on the docks below. Their are boats about the size of the Nantucket Harbor Launch tied up and taking follks out for rides. They have a frame for a top built for them but the frame is covered in colored lights. Out on the river these all look like children's toys. There is music playing too. We wait just a moment while our Egyptian friends speak with a boat owner and then we are off!. There is a small generator on the bow to run the lights and an outboard in back. The man running the boat plays Egyptian music. The first song starts with a chicken clucking! Aparently it is popular because the 12 year old girl who has joined us with her mom knows all the words. She is coaxed into dancing for us and we move the table that is in the center of the boat. It is strange but even though this girl has her head scarf on, and very modest clothes covering her wrist to ankle, she dances belly dancer style. One hand behind her head and the other outstretched with a lot of movement in the wrist.Plenty of hips. Hmmmm. I just can't figure it all out. She is very cute and clearly enjoys the dancing. We all join in and have so much fun!

King Farouk's castle and Anwar Sadat's home are pointed out to us. The expenisve hotels loom over us and we see many boats like ours passing us. It is amazing. We are all pinching ourselves. I think of home, home, home of course being on a boat - whishing I could share this with my boys or friends. But there are new friends beofre me and we are all dancing and smiling.

The night winds down quickly after the boat ride. A long train back and then a taxi to our buildings. Is this really my first day in Egypt??

Wow!